The Sunday Independent, Nov 2004

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Caroline's tall yarns and purls of wisdom

By Liadan Hynes
 

Sunday November 28 2004

MY NIGHT in Kerry at the Caroline Leahy fashion show ended with myself and my host bonding over vodka cranberries, with me warbling about how much I love "the Kingdom".

I had started the journey cursing the long trip. Actually, that's a lie. I had started the journey very excited about the trip to Kerry, a favourite for family holidays growing up. I had a pile of magazines, the words of my editor ringing in my ears telling me to treat myself and go first class and, after a mad morning rushing about, was looking forward to sitting down to a big lunch.

Firstly, the train was one of those bone crunchers I had thought were reserved only for short trips. And not only did it not have suspension, but there was no food carriage, not even a tea trolley.

Matters weren't improved when my fellow passengers unwrapped picnics all around me.

With only chewing gum to quell the pangs, I arrived in Kerry sore-jawed and starving. After eating my way through half the room service menu at my hotel, I perked up. Things at the Meadowlands Hotel were in the full swing of organised chaos typical of a Celia Holman-Lee production. I was put in charge of choosing the best-dressed woman - a first for me, so apologies to anyone offended by my overt checking out.

Knitwear is a seminal part of Irish fashion, but it's come a long way from the Aran jumper. Led by designers such as Lainey, it has taken on a new, sexier vibe. Sheer diaphanous knits are showing that it can actually be incredibly flattering. Colour has also played a big part in revitalising knitwear.

Caroline Leahy has been knitting since national school, where it was part of the curriculum. One of her best friends, who was apparently born with the ability to knit, taught her, and they've never looked back. "I've never followed patterns, even when I was young, I'd get graph paper and make up my own designs. I don't know if I could follow a pattern," she tells me.

When her first child was born, she took redundancy and decided to set up her own business. This was 12 years ago. What started as a mini-project making casual knitwear and school jumpers has now blossomed into a major design innovation, that deals mostly in formal occasion wear.

"I intended doing casual knitwear, but I got more daring, and people were getting interested. There was no plan, it just happened."

Five years ago, she added a new element to her designs by hand-painting onto silk and satin slips, which go under the crochet dresses.

"I was always into art at school. I've been painting for four or five years now, and its getting more elaborate. The fabric is like a canvas."

Another aspect of the business which burgeoned four years ago was Caroline's association with the Ros Fodhla - the entrant in the Rose of Tralee submitted by Ciarrai Beo Teo. Caroline had designed the dress for Miss Ireland Lisa O'Sullivan, and was approached by the organisation to make the dress for the first Ros Fodhla.

Both the Ros Fodhla Rose and Caroline dressing her are now annual events. This year, the Rose wore a stunning full-length evening dress - a white satin slip with a hand-painted peacock design, under a turquoise crocheted slip.

Colour plays a major part in her work. "I love colours to clash in a way that they actually come together, putting colours together you'd never think of," she says.

Her own outfit on the night of the show was a knee-length strapless dress in turquoise satin with an overlayer of turquoise crochet, and pink tulle peeking out underneath. She had accessorised with pink kitten heels, and a pink panel at the front of her hair, specially dyed for the occasion.

This was her first major independent show, what made her decide to put it on? "A bit of lunacy, a moment of madness, and a little bit of egging on from Celia one night," she explained.

She also had some input from my own editor, Constance Harris, who suggested a whole new way of styling her clothes, introducing a sexy rock-chick look.

"I was thrilled, it's great to get an outside view of your clothes. Constance gave me loads of hints, suggested putting tops over jeans, and encouraged me to put out more sexy outfits," she enthused.

And it gave a whole new perspective to the designs.

While there is much that would be perfect for bridal or party wear, there's also a load of sexy tops. One particular belly top reminded me of an outfit Kiera Knightley wore, with jeans, to a recent premiere.

There's also some incredibly snuggly and comfy looking full-length and three-quarter-length cardies, and wrap cardies with lace panels and fur trimmings. I loved the really cute baby-doll dresses - another new departure for Caroline.

The designs are always changing and evolving, she says. "Fashion and TV, magazines and real women and what they wear are my inspiration. I'm always looking for new stitches to try."

Caroline does it all on site in her own studio in Kerry, helped by one or two cottage workers who do some of the crochet work.

The show finale was a bridal section, accompanied by 12-year-old harpist Sorcha Trant, who wore an outfit by Caroline decorated with musical notes. A backless white dress is Caroline's favourite piece, and would make a really sexy bridal option.

Caroline's collection is inspirational. I went straight home to root out my crocheted silver top given to me by my gran years ago, which was used for dressing up as a mermaid, and which I'll be proudly wearing throughout the party season. I've found the perfect way to get dressed up and stay warm.

- Liadan Hynes